Basic O/W Emulsion for Daily Moisturising Face Cream
An oil-in-water (O/W) emulsion is the foundation of most face creams and lotions. This guide covers a balanced, broad-spectrum formula suitable for normal to dry skin, using widely available raw materials that are COSMOS-compatible. The finished cream is non-greasy, absorbs quickly, and is suitable as a base for adding active ingredients.
Target Application
Daily moisturising face cream, suitable for normal to dry skin
Key Properties
- Non-greasy, quick-absorbing texture
- pH 5.0–5.5 for skin compatibility
- Broad-spectrum preserved
- COSMOS-compatible ingredient selection
Ingredient List
| INGREDIENT | % |
|---|---|
| Purified Water | q.s. to 100% |
| Glycerin | 5.0% |
| Sodium PCA | 2.0% |
| INGREDIENT | % |
|---|---|
| Cetearyl Alcohol | 3.0% |
| Glyceryl Stearate SE | 2.5% |
| Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride | 5.0% |
| Jojoba Oil | 3.0% |
| Shea Butter | 2.0% |
| INGREDIENT | % |
|---|---|
| Phenoxyethanol | 0.8% |
| Ethylhexylglycerin | 0.2% |
| Allantoin | 0.3% |
| Panthenol (D-) | 1.0% |
| INGREDIENT | % |
|---|---|
| Lactic Acid (88%) | q.s. |
Percentages are by weight unless otherwise noted. “q.s.” = quantity sufficient to reach 100%.
Manufacturing Process
- 1
Heat Phase A (water phase) to 75–80°C with mixing. Dissolve all water-soluble ingredients.
- 2
Melt Phase B (oil phase) separately to 75–80°C until completely homogeneous.
- 3
With moderate stirring, slowly add Phase B into Phase A (or vice versa, depending on your emulsifier's preferred direction). Stir constantly.
- 4
Homogenise at high shear for 2–3 minutes to achieve a stable emulsion.
- 5
Begin cooling with slow stirring. Avoid high shear during cooling to preserve structure.
- 6
At 40°C, add Phase C ingredients one by one with gentle mixing after each addition.
- 7
At 30°C or below, adjust pH to 5.0–5.5 using Phase D (lactic acid solution). Check with calibrated pH meter.
- 8
Check viscosity at room temperature (target: 15,000–25,000 cP). Adjust with additional cetearyl alcohol if needed.
- 9
Package and perform stability testing: 6 weeks at 40°C, room temperature, and freeze-thaw cycles.
Regulatory Notes
- Phenoxyethanol is restricted to 1.0% maximum in EU cosmetics (Annex V, Entry 29)
- All ingredients should be confirmed REACH registered if manufacturing in or supplying to the EU
- COSMOS certification requires organic-certified versions of jojoba and shea if making a COSMOS claim
- Label ingredient list in descending order of concentration (INCI names) as required by EU Regulation 1223/2009
Formulator Tips
- Use Degree of Unsaturation (DoU) to predict emulsion stability — higher unsaturation in oil phase can reduce shelf life
- Glyceryl Stearate SE already contains a soap component; do not combine with other soap-type emulsifiers
- If the emulsion is too fluid, increase cetearyl alcohol by 0.5% increments before adjusting emulsifier levels
- Test preservative efficacy (PET/challenge test) before scaling — preserved appearance doesn't mean preserved product
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