Gentle Cleansing Shampoo with Natural Surfactant Blend
A mild, sulphate-free shampoo formulation suitable for daily use and sensitive scalp types. This formula uses a blend of amphoteric and non-ionic surfactants to achieve good foam, gentle cleansing, and COSMOS compatibility. The addition of panthenol and hydrolysed wheat protein improves manageability and hair feel.
Target Application
Daily-use shampoo for normal to sensitive scalp; sulphate-free positioning
Key Properties
- Sulphate-free, SLES-free
- Low irritation potential
- Good foam and rinse profile
- pH 5.0–5.5 (hair-compatible)
Ingredient List
| INGREDIENT | % |
|---|---|
| Purified Water | q.s. to 100% |
| Disodium Cocoamphodiacetate | 20.0% |
| Cocamidopropyl Betaine (30%) | 15.0% |
| Decyl Glucoside (50%) | 10.0% |
| Glycerin | 3.0% |
| INGREDIENT | % |
|---|---|
| Panthenol (D-) | 1.0% |
| Hydrolysed Wheat Protein | 1.0% |
| Phenoxyethanol | 0.8% |
| Ethylhexylglycerin | 0.2% |
| INGREDIENT | % |
|---|---|
| Citric Acid solution (50%) | q.s. |
| INGREDIENT | % |
|---|---|
| Sodium Chloride (10% solution) | q.s. |
Percentages are by weight unless otherwise noted. “q.s.” = quantity sufficient to reach 100%.
Manufacturing Process
- 1
Add water to mixing vessel. Begin slow stirring.
- 2
Add surfactants (Phase A) in order: disodium cocoamphodiacetate first, then betaine, then decyl glucoside. Stir gently — avoid creating excess foam during blending.
- 3
Add glycerin. Stir until homogeneous. No heat required for this formulation.
- 4
Add Phase B ingredients one at a time with gentle stirring between each addition.
- 5
Adjust pH to 5.0–5.5 with citric acid solution (Phase C). Check with calibrated meter.
- 6
Adjust viscosity with sodium chloride solution (Phase D), 1% increments. Target viscosity: 3,000–8,000 cP. Sodium chloride has a bell-curve effect on surfactant viscosity — do not exceed the peak.
- 7
Perform clarity check. If any haze, check temperature (above 20°C) and pH.
- 8
Conduct foam assessment, rinse profile evaluation, and stability testing before release.
Regulatory Notes
- Cocamidopropyl betaine: SCCS has noted sensitisation potential in some individuals — ensure supplier grade is low in amidoamine and DMAPA residuals
- Decyl glucoside is biodegradable and readily COSMOS-approved — check your specific supplier's certification
- COSMOS-certified shampoo formulas have restrictions on synthetic fragrance and some preservation systems
- Gluten-free claim requires removing hydrolysed wheat protein or substituting with hydrolysed oat or rice protein
Formulator Tips
- Add surfactants slowly and avoid high-shear mixing — sulphate-free systems are more sensitive to aeration
- If the formula goes cloudy at low temperature, this is likely a Krafft point issue with the betaine — test at 10°C before finalising
- Fragrance addition should be at ≤0.5% for sensitive scalp claims; do allergen assessment as required by EU 1223/2009
- Test foam quality by conducting a Ross-Miles foam test rather than subjective assessment
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