Rinse-Off Hair Conditioner (Standard Cationic)
A classic cationic conditioning emulsion that deposits onto negatively charged hair fibre, reducing friction, improving detangling, and adding gloss. This formulation uses Behentrimonium Chloride (BTMS-50 or similar) as the primary conditioning agent and cetyl alcohol as the thickener. It provides excellent in-process spreadability and rinse-off feel.
Target Application
Rinse-off hair conditioner for normal to dry hair
Key Properties
- Good detangling and slip
- Non-greasy feel after rinse
- pH 3.5–4.5 (optimal for hair fibre)
- Compatible with cationic conditioning actives
Ingredient List
| INGREDIENT | % |
|---|---|
| Behentrimonium Methosulfate (and) Cetyl Alcohol (BTMS-50) | 5.0% |
| Cetyl Alcohol | 2.0% |
| Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride | 2.0% |
| Dimethicone (100 cSt) | 1.5% |
| INGREDIENT | % |
|---|---|
| Purified Water | q.s. to 100% |
| Glycerin | 2.0% |
| INGREDIENT | % |
|---|---|
| Panthenol | 1.0% |
| Hydrolysed Keratin | 1.0% |
| Phenoxyethanol | 0.8% |
| Ethylhexylglycerin | 0.2% |
| INGREDIENT | % |
|---|---|
| Citric Acid (50% solution) | q.s. |
Percentages are by weight unless otherwise noted. “q.s.” = quantity sufficient to reach 100%.
Manufacturing Process
- 1
Heat Phase A (wax/oil phase) to 80°C until all solids are fully melted. Stir to homogenise.
- 2
Heat Phase B (water + glycerin) to 80°C.
- 3
With moderate stirring, slowly pour Phase B into Phase A. Continue stirring.
- 4
Stir and cool. The emulsion will thicken significantly as it cools — maintain stirring.
- 5
At 40°C, add Phase C ingredients. Mix gently after each addition.
- 6
Adjust pH to 3.5–4.5 with citric acid solution (Phase D). Note: BTMS systems should be acidic for optimal conditioning deposition.
- 7
Final viscosity check at 25°C (target: 20,000–35,000 cP). Adjust with additional cetyl alcohol if needed.
Regulatory Notes
- Dimethicone is an amodimethicone precursor — verify the specific grade used and check current regulatory status in your target market
- pH of 3.5–4.5 requires careful consideration for eye area — conditioners applied near the eyes should have a pH review
- Hydrolysed keratin: some grades are animal-derived (wool, feather) — specify source if making vegan claims
- REACH: confirm dimethicone registration for volumes above 1 tonne/year in EU
Formulator Tips
- BTMS-50 is self-emulsifying — it creates the emulsion by forming lamellar structures that deposit on hair. No additional emulsifier is needed
- Higher BTMS concentrations (>7%) can cause a 'plasticky' feel — stay in the 4–6% range for rinse-off
- If viscosity is too low, increase cetyl alcohol (not BTMS) — more BTMS increases conditioning but not viscosity
- Always check combing force reduction vs. untreated hair using a tensile tester for quantified conditioning claims
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